*Happily flying north with views of the Pyrenees.*

On Monday, January 8, 2024 we headed out to the airport for a short flight to Bilbao. Or so we thought. After checking in we discovered our plane would be delayed. And delayed. And delayed again. On the flight we heard a couple of announcements about the event of luggage not arriving, or something. We didn’t pay much attention to that at the time. It became clear when we entered the baggage claim area, and began to notice piles and piles of luggage all over the place. That’s when we learned that there was a ground crew strike going on, and all baggage handling was badly messed up.

So we boarded a bus to head into town. At least that was smooth, quick and cheap! Traveling light with just our carry-ons (that had no clothes or toiletries) we got to our apartment. At bit distressed (me more than Bob) we headed out to familiar streets in the Barrio Viejo where we were staying and enjoyed some pinxtos!

We spent a lot of time in our apartment. Coming and going the first couple of days, shopping for clothes and supplies to get us through till when our luggage was returned to us. When…? Every morning getting the “we’re still looking” email. So frustrating. But, we had a great apartment, and we were in the old town… plenty of good bars and restaurants to go to.

Click for the walk-through video of the apartment is on YouTube. 4 min 4 sec.

The Ribera Market

Very close to us is the big Mercat de la Ribera. It’s right on the Nervion River. We remember it well from the last times we were here. On a Saturday morning we shopped for that night’s fish dinner.

For all photo galleries: There are captions, but they can only be seen on the desktop version. They don’t show up on a phone display.

View of Ribera market, the old town and newer city beyond from across the river.

Cooking classroom in the market.

Basque man in his traditional “boina”— beret, buying some fish.

The fishmonger preparing our dorada that Bob would cook that night.

Here he is preparing.

This would not be our dinner.

Art Museum Visits

At the Museum of Fine Arts

This painting by Robert Delaunay was hanging near the work in the next photo.

I loved this hanging sculpture by a Basque artist, who used a similar color palette as the Delaunay painting.

The Museu de Bellas Artes…

was under major expansion, so much was closed. We have been there before, so it was okay. We enjoyed what we saw that day, and entrance was free!

The Louise Bourgeois spider sculpure “Maman” outside the Guggeheim, with the cool red bridge behind.

Two Eduardo Chillida sculptures are now being exhibited on the terrace. We love Chillida!

The fog here is an art installation! It comes and goes.

Interesting exhibition of an artist called Gego, who I hadn’t heard of before. German born, migrated to Venezuela.

Very interesting delicate wire sculptures.

One of her “drawings without paper.”

Pictured here constructing one of those ethereal sculptures. Her full name was Gertrud Goldschmidt. Gego works nicely!

A cool infinity light installation. By a Japanese artist, a few people are let into this inclosed box for a few minutes.

Yet another body of Picasso work. Sculptures we haven’t seen.

Girl jumping rope.

The highlight of this visit for me! El Anatsui, Ghanaian artist well beloved by me and fellow mosaicists!

His work is usually massive, but this one is really huge. Especially to consider it’s made up of hundreds of thousands of liquor bottle metal capsules!

Most of his work is massive. He has many assistants to carry out the actual constructions. He’s currently 79 years old.

The draping quality is wonderful. I am in my happy place!

The required visit to the Richard Serra installation. Seen it several times, and each time we think, “oh yeah, gotta see that again.” But then…

… it doesn’t disappoint!

One of the maquettes for the work.

Oh yeah, it was worth it!

Wandering Around

Immediately outside our apartment building door is a Mexican taco shop, then a little ways down is a bar we went to several times.

The front window. The name translates to The Dry Law. Maybe a joke?

Funky and warm inside. Good selection of wines and beers.

Enjoying an early evening pinxto. These are Gildas, typical Basque bar food. They also made really good Argentine empanadas.

Another favorite bar. Named Baster, don’t know the meaning. Love the deco-style building with a gothic spire behind.

Saturday afternoon festivities. The Athletico Bilbao was playing a match that day, and so many fans were out in the streets. Showing their colors, having fun, and bands were playing too.

The clean and empty street early Sunday morning. After a long night of partying and merry-making, the cleaning crews come out and get it all fresh for another day.

The Frog Game…

The night before, and many nights, this corner bar has a favorite pastime. The frog game is popular in northern Spain. People try to toss coins into the frog’s mouth. Kind of like cornhole, but with a tiny opening!

Bob couldn’t resist getting our own frog (and the coins) for a souvenir of Basque Country. We may even set it up as a game!

Big gathering on the river…

Saturday afternoon, a very large protest type of gathering. Speeches both in Basque (Euskera) and Spanish (Castellano). It seemed they were showing support for the Basque homeland, getting ETA prisoners out of jail, and for Palestine solidarity.

Sunset through a sculpture on a plaza.

Funny little UPS delivery vehicle spied in the downtown area.

Click to see a video of some fun activities. You don’t see stuff like this in our streets on any given Saturday!

The Return of the Luggage

On Sunday morning, 6 days after we arrived, I got a phone call from a Spain number that I suddenly realized had to be the airport. I picked up this time— I actually had received a call, probably from this same number, on Friday and again on Saturday— but they didn’t leave a message! I was hesitant to call it, cuz, you know, spam calls. But lo and behold, they were calling to say our bags were at the airport, ready to pick up! Yay! But then I was angry, because of the chaos and disconnect between the airlines and the airport ground crew. All week, I was expecting either a text or email when we could pick up. But no— the system spitted out the same (and then wrong) message every single day… except Sunday, when I got the call instead.

Anyway, we went out there on a bus, short 20 minute ride each way, and claimed ours, after looking through about five groups of luggage, just like the one pictured below.

We were grateful for the super friendly and helpful Iberia employee who helped us. She was helping out in Bilbao with the mess, on her days off! She was from A Coruña, in Galicia. She was as mad at the workers who striked as the public was!

The one redeeming thing that Vueling Airlines facilitated was prompt refunding of the approx. 150€ we spent on clothes and amenities to get us by. Money was in the bank in two days!

Arriaga Theatre

This performance hall was named for Bilbao native Juan Arriaga, a gifted young musician and composer who tragically died from tuberculosis at the age of 20 in 1826. Originally opened in 1890, a fire destroyed much of it and it was rebuilt and reopened in 1919. More reformations happened in 1986. We took a tour of the beautiful theater at the edge of the old town. The young tour guide was very hesitant and unsure of her English, but I admire her for practicing and perservering. The building has suffered downturns, fire and neglect but now, restored and reformed, plays, operas and concerts are held in the building.

Exterior, shot grabbed from the internet. Never took one myself!

Bust of the namesake on the grand staircase landing.

One of the refreshment bars in the lobby.

Lovely room for private gatherings. Historical photos on the walls.

Inside the theatre. Pretty opulent!

The Orient Express Room. The architect of the building was an Agatha Christie fan, so designed this lounge to feel like a rail car in that book.

The costume display room.

Our tour guide.

More period costumes.

The Begoña Basilica

The big church in an upper neighborhood, that was always an item of touristic interest, but we had’t gotten to. One day we wandered around town and realized we were very close, so we popped in. We had a coffee nearby waiting for it to reopen after lunch closure. It was free, so why not wander in?
(no captions on these photos)

Zorrotazaure, the Old Industrial District. On a Rainy Day

Bilbao has a great history of being an industrial powerhouse, back in the day. Steel fabrication, ship building, etc. But decline happens as it always does. There has been much renewal and forward progress in the last 50 years or so, but so much decaying abandoned stuff is left. Juxtaposed to that now is the building of massive apartment skyscrapers, creating a new upscale housing area. Of course, much debate on “gentrification” happens.

The other aspect of this area I think is good is the proliferation of artist and makers spaces. There is support in the city for this kind of development too.